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If you were a kid some time before, say, 2010,

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there was a phrase your parents probably learned to be quite irritated by:

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batteries not included.

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Our gadgets and gizmos used to be quite reliant on the good ol’ AA battery or,

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if designers&nbsp;wanted to be annoying, the AAA battery.

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Look, there’s not a huge difference in size between&nbsp;
the AA and the AAA and they usually cost the same per battery

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so whenever some engineer out&nbsp;there decides that a thing 
which could clearly fit longer-lasting AA batteries in it

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will go with&nbsp;just as expensive but shorter-lived AAAs instead,

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I get a wee bit angry.

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I mean, just look at this&nbsp;remote control.

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It could totally fit AAs in there,
just look at how much extra room th -

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wait is that a Duracell PowerCheck?

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Indeed it is!

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If you were buying batteries in&nbsp;the late ‘90s, you probably remember these.

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The idea was that rather than need to use some sort of&nbsp;
battery tester to see if a battery still had any charge left in it,

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you could build that tester into&nbsp;the battery.

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And that’s what Duracell did - as well as some of their competitors.

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As a matter of fact this version&nbsp;of the idea came from Kodak,

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and there’s a whole fascinating story
around patent disputes&nbsp;which I won’t be getting into

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(long story short, James R. Burroughs had a similar
but technically&nbsp;different idea slightly earlier than Kodak

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but both patents got approved which caused some kerfuffles&nbsp;-
I’ve linked to a great article down below which explains all that).

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Here, I just want&nbsp;to focus on how the Duracell version worked,
because it’s quite clever!

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But also much&nbsp;much simpler than you might have imagined.

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If you want to test a battery like this, you’re&nbsp;going to want to measure its voltage.

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Like most battery chemistries, ordinary alkaline manganese&nbsp;dioxide
cells experience a drop in voltage as&nbsp;they discharge.

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When fresh each cell has a voltage&nbsp;around 1.5, maybe 1.6 volts

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(and the standard AA, AAA, C, and D batteries are composed of just a&nbsp;single cell,

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like an amoeba!).

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But that voltage steadily diminishes as the battery is used&nbsp;up.

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When you’re halfway through it’ll be down to around 1.2 volts
and when it’s near empty&nbsp;it’ll struggle to produce even a single volt.

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So, a quick check of a battery can be done&nbsp;with a multimeter like this one.

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If I use it and probe across this battery here,

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it's reading 1.57 volts so this is either&nbsp;brand new or hardly used.

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This one, though, it's only reading 1.06 so&nbsp;it’s pretty dead.

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This test isn’t perfect because we’re not checking the batteries under a&nbsp;load,
but it’s still fairly reliable.

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Trouble is, you need a multimeter to do this as well as the&nbsp;
knowledge of how much voltage drop is acceptable before it's dead.

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So lots of inexpensive battery testers were made&nbsp;
which are really just analog voltmeters with a&nbsp;scale that reads good and bad.

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But what if you&nbsp;could build a voltmeter into the battery itself?

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Well, that’s ultimately what Duracell did with these&nbsp;batteries, 
but the way they work is a little… odd.

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First, you’ll notice that the battery&nbsp;says to test it
at 70 degrees Fahrenheit or 21 degrees Celsius.

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That probably&nbsp;means the tester’s functionality
has something to do with temperature, and indeed&nbsp;it does.

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But before I get ahead of myself, let me just show you how these were used.

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It says “press dots to test” and, well, that’s all you had to do.

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Except… if you remember&nbsp;these you’ll know that you had to press quite hard.

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Dig your nails in there a little bit.

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Once&nbsp;you did it though, the little bar
below the power gauge would suddenly turn yellow, filling up from&nbsp;right to left.

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If the whole bar turned yellow, the battery was full.

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And less and less of it&nbsp;would turn yellow as the battery wore down.

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Now, with a use by date of March 2003 it&nbsp;probably won’t surprise you
to learn that these batteries are in fact very dead.

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I got the&nbsp;tester to turn yellow with a little
movie magic involving a foot switch and a hair dryer.

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Because heat is what turns that little bar yellow.

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Behind that little window is a small&nbsp;amount of thermochromic material,
which as the name implies changes color based on temperature.

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It’s the same sort of stuff that goes in a mood ring
or one of those thermometers you might stick&nbsp;on an aquarium.

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The specific chemical in here is simpler - it merely indicates it’s above a certain&nbsp;temperature threshold, but it’s the same general idea.

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What makes it heat up, though?

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Well you may have&nbsp;noticed that the testing window is perfectly in-line
with the two dots you’re supposed to&nbsp;press to test the battery.

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The tester is built into the battery’s label, which I’ve removed from&nbsp;this one.

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In case you’ve never seen an unwrapped alkaline battery before,
well this is what they&nbsp;look like.

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The positive terminal is actually part of the battery’s shell,
and it extends almost&nbsp;all the way down to the negative terminal.

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A small insulator separates the negative tab from&nbsp;the shell.

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And if we compare with one of the still-wrapped batteries,

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we’ll see that one of&nbsp;the testing dots rests on the negative terminal
and the other rests on the battery’s shell

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(which, remember is the positive terminal of the battery).

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Looking now at the backside of the label,
we’ll&nbsp;see that those testing dots are above electrically conductive pads.

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The pads on the negative side&nbsp;are very difficult to see,
they’re these three grey patches which don’t look all that impressive,

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but the positive contact patch is quite obviously a metal foil of some sort.

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And the contact patch&nbsp;sits behind a round hole
in a thin piece of beige insulating material.

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That insulating layer keeps&nbsp;the pad from touching the battery shell
unless you actively press on the label and force it&nbsp;through.

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If you exert enough force on both dots for their respective contact patches
to touch&nbsp;both ends of the battery, you complete a circuit.

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To what, you ask?

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A tiny little heater.

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That&nbsp;heater is in contact with the thermochromic material,
so if the battery has sufficient charge,

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when you press in those dots and complete the circuit,
the heater will warm up the indicator&nbsp;and turn it yellow.

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But it’s not quite that simple.

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While you could just use a very thin wire heating&nbsp;element,
that would only allow for a simple pass/fail test.

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If the battery had enough oomph&nbsp;
left to produce enough heat to make the indicator yellow, great!

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But you wouldn’t necessarily know&nbsp;how much oomph it had left.

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So instead, the heater has a varying cross-sectional area
to produce&nbsp;a gradient of heat output across its length.

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If I remove that paper insulator, we can actually&nbsp;see the heater.

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Kind of, anyway.

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I’m not sure exactly what it’s made of -
it might actually just be the same&nbsp;foil that makes up the contact patch.

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Regardless, it is visible and you’ll notice that it has&nbsp;a slight taper,
becoming narrower towards the negative end of the battery.

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That means its&nbsp;resistance actually varies across its length, which also means the voltage drop across each part&nbsp;of this heater when it’s operating is different.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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If the battery is strong enough, its voltage will&nbsp;be sufficient to heat the entire thing,
so all of&nbsp;the indicator turns yellow.

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But if the battery&nbsp;is getting weak and voltage begins to fall,

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then only the skinny, high-resistance part of&nbsp;the heater will get warm.

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Most of the voltage drop occurs in that part of the heater,

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and&nbsp;the battery doesn’t have any more volts for the rest of it,
so only that part gets&nbsp;warm enough to turn the indicator yellow.

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And luckily I can show you this with a DC power&nbsp;supply.

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When I provide this with just 1 volt,
you’ll see that only the right side of&nbsp;the graphic turns yellow.

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To clarify, the indicator always turns yellow at the same&nbsp;temperature,
and the entire bar is filled with&nbsp;the same indicator.

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But low voltages (caused by&nbsp;a weak battery) can only get the skinny part of the heater warm enough to actually change the&nbsp;indicator’s color.

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But when I crank the voltage up,
now all of it gets warm and so the whole bar&nbsp;turns yellow.

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And of course the bar is aligned with the zero to 100% scale
to give a reasonably&nbsp;accurate impression of the battery’s useful life&nbsp;remaining.

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It’s a very elegant solution using&nbsp;tech so simple
that it can be printed on a label.

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Oh, and remember that beige insulator?

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Turns&nbsp;out it’s not just electrically insulating, it’s also thermally insulating.

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That slot cut&nbsp;into it is there to maintain an air gap
between the heater and thermochromic material and the&nbsp;battery shell.

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The battery shell is made of thermally-conductive material and it’s rather&nbsp;massive,
so if the tester were in physical contact with the battery shell,

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it would suck all the&nbsp;heat right out of it and it would never turn the indicator yellow.

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Keeping it away from the battery&nbsp;is necessary for the indicator to function,

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so the same piece of what’s essentially just&nbsp;paper is functioning as
both a crude power switch for the tester and thermal&nbsp;isolation for the indicator.

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Neat.

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You might have realized that since the&nbsp;
battery is powering a heater to test itself,

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that means each time you test it you’re using&nbsp;up a little bit of its capacity.

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And this is true - though it also means the test is slightly&nbsp;
more accurate since you’re doing it under a load.

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It’s not like the actual scale here is all that&nbsp;
accurate but testing under load is critical.

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These 25 year old batteries test at about 1.3 volts&nbsp;on the multimeter,
which would suggest they’ve got about half their capacity remaining.

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But their&nbsp;ability to produce any current flow is completely shot.

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If I manage to activate the tester while&nbsp;also probing the battery,

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you’ll see that the voltage plummets
to not even half a volt as the&nbsp;heater is placed in-circuit.

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So, sure enough, these batteries are dead
and their inbuilt&nbsp;tester does actually reflect that.

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Yet the multimeter doesn’t.

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So then… why did it go away?

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Duracell PowerCheck was&nbsp;a pretty short blip on the landscape 
of disposable batteries yet it’s clearly&nbsp;a useful, functional feature.

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Well, the patent disputes and licensing shenanigans are&nbsp;
one clear reason but I honestly think there’s a simpler one:

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not that many people were actually&nbsp;testing their batteries on a regular basis!

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Yes, we all know about the loose batteries in&nbsp;the junk drawer
that may or may not save the TV remote in a trying time,

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but aside from&nbsp;random situations like that,

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I think it’s fair to say most people used and continue to&nbsp;
use batteries in a pretty straightforward way:

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they simply stay new in the package until they&nbsp;
get put into a thing which needs batteries,&nbsp;&nbsp;

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and then they stay in that thing until they&nbsp;
die, at which point they’re gotten rid of&nbsp;&nbsp;

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and another set of fresh batteries replaces&nbsp;them.

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I’d argue it’s pretty uncommon to take partially-used batteries out of a thing
and&nbsp;then put them in the junk drawer for later use.

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I’m not saying I think that never happens -

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I myself have a few tools which need batteries but I don’t keep batteries in them since I rarely use those tools.

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But I do think in the grand scheme,
keeping half-used batteries around is infrequent.

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Certainly infrequent enough to question whether it actually makes sense to spend the money putting a&nbsp;battery tester on every single battery.

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These are commodity items, and while there surely is some&nbsp;
brand loyalty out there for the most part they’re&nbsp;competing on cost,

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and so if you need a pack of batteries and you use them like I do,
a built-in battery tester is just a weird gimmick&nbsp;which makes them more expensive

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(and makes me less likely to buy it).

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And as I already said,&nbsp;
if you remember these, they weren’t easy to use!

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It was actually quite frustrating to jam those&nbsp;
dots in there and hope it turned yellow.

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And if I were the type of person who kept partially-used batteries in random places,
I would&nbsp;probably just buy a battery tester and keep it around.

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Or, ya know, just try putting them in whatever needs batteries&nbsp;
and see if they work.

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That was always an option.

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I think that in hindsight, this is a&nbsp;pretty clear case of a really clever,
and very neat idea which was unfortunately&nbsp;born from a very particular frustration.

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A frustration that the inventors thought&nbsp;
was more common than it actually was.

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Duracell used to include inexpensive battery&nbsp;testers in the packages of their batteries, and they worked very similarly to the PowerCheck&nbsp;feature here.

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Some people found them hard to use,
or were bothered by the fact that they were&nbsp;easy to lose,

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and that could be seen as a legitimate problem to solve.

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Which Duracell&nbsp;did by incorporating those testers into the battery!

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But I don’t think anyone asked how&nbsp;
often those testers were actually getting used in the first place.

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Because if they had, I’m&nbsp;not sure this would have ever happened.

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00:13:27,942 --> 00:13:33,683
Of course these days, most of our devices which&nbsp;need batteries 
are using rechargeable batteries,

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so we’re just not buying or using disposable batteries as&nbsp;much as we used to.

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Which I think is unequivocally a good thing!

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It’s kinda nuts how normal it used&nbsp;to be to 
burn through these and then just throw ‘em away.

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I had a Game Boy and that one device&nbsp;
must have gone through dozens of these.

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And then there was the Walkman, my camera,
the light for&nbsp;the game boy,

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and who knows how many other toys I had
which needed constant battery replenishment.

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Thank goodness we’re past that.

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Mostly.

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00:14:06,184 --> 00:14:10,085
Uh, but even for the devices on sale today which need&nbsp;AA batteries?

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00:14:10,085 --> 00:14:18,968
They often tell you how much charge is left so
putting a tester on the battery&nbsp;itself really just isn’t necessary anymore.

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Alright, well I think we’re done.

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I want&nbsp;to extend a thank you to Luis Solano for suggesting this video topic.

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It’s been on the docket for a while but, uh,
well these haven’t been in production for quite some time

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so it took me a while to get my hands on them.

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And I have a second thank you for Ernie&nbsp;Smith -

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this is at least the second time my research began
and immediately I was presented&nbsp;with a thorough Tedium article.

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I would have gone more deeply here were it not for the&nbsp;
fact that this video was originally slated for November

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but production issues on a different&nbsp;topic moved it up to now,

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so if you’re interested in those patent details and some of the&nbsp;backstory, be sure to check out the link in the description.

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Normally I try to put something&nbsp;clever here but I think I’m all out of juice.

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♫ exhaustedly smooth jazz ♫

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like most battery chemistries, ordinary alkaline magaz—

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magazine?

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00:15:15,935 --> 00:15:18,244
Are you subscribed to Alkaline Magazine?

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Lots of inexpensive battery testers were made which are really just analog voltmeters with a scale that ride—

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DANG IT

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Kind of. I'm not exactly...

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oh I don't like that delivery

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...but there ability to produce any curr...mmmmnaAAGH

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...plummets to not even half a volt as the plater...

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mehah huhhh

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It was actually kind of frustrating to
push these dots in and wait for it to light up.

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And if I were the type of person who kept part-

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yep, I can't say "light up" I'll get pedanted for that.

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If I were the type of person who kept randomly used partially used

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aaaaahggghhh!

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So apparently these were made for much longer in some markets and also hung around for a while here in the US on some of the high-end batteries Duracell sold.

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00:16:01,827 --> 00:16:06,161
TBH I had no idea but mostly because
I'm a value-obsessed Midwesterner who mostly buys generics

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(or might splurge for Rayovac if it's on-sale).

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Does this count as an end-captions gag?

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You decide!

